Garbage and grunge

Among the things I can't get used to here are the presence of large garbage and recycling bins - about the size of construction waste dumpsters - on the streets in the small towns and cities. The idea is that you take your recyclables there, rather than having the garbage company come to you, presumably saving the taxpayers some money. But it's a pretty trashy solution.

Couldn't resist the pun.

Seriously, the bins are about the size of a small car, and there are several in a row parked in rather conspicuous spots everywhere you go. The summer heat makes the bins stink, and they have a predictable effect on the local landscape.

They're a blight in the small towns but arguably even worse in the cities. Then again, things could be considerably worse - the garbage in Naples collected for months until new landfills were opened late this spring.

Garbage crisis aside, Florence seems especially dirty, much grungier than I remember. The fact that it's overrun by tourists who aren't especially concerned with keeping things clean is one reason for the mess. Literally tens of thousands of people move through the streets every day. And for some reason, the city seems to be a favorite of people looking to get drunk over the weekend, which is baffling for many reasons, not least of which is the price of alcohol.

But sloppy and-or drunk tourists are just one part of the problem. There's trash in the gutters of nearly every street, and graffiti everywhere you go, even in the residential areas far from the attractions (though thankfully not as bad there).

Again, some of the graffiti is from tourists - some Japanese schoolgirls were caught in a case that got worldwide publicity just before we arrived - but the slogans and locations make it clear the problem goes well beyond thoughtless visitors. Overall, the city seems uncharacteristically unkempt and under-cared for. For a place whose economy depends quite a bit on tourists, Florence shows a very bruised face to the world.

But it's nostalgic in a way - reminds me of New York City when I was growing up.