I chose my hotel sight unseen and sans recommendations, based more on its location (and price) than the amenities. That isn't to say that it's a dump - far from it. But it's surprising when the amenities it does have turn out to be pretty decent - a good price on internet access (as long as I use their business center), free minibar (2 beers a day), and breakfast.

Yeah, I know, breakfast is generally included at most European hotels , but this breakfast is actually good. At least if like pastries - they have these little lemon tart things are addictive. Different cakes, thick Italian bacon . . . (Sure, there's healthy stuff like fruit, and even eggs . . . you think I'm here for my health???)

But the best thing about breakfast is the cappuccino, fresh made. (Unlike the hotel in Florence, which served, gag, instant cappuccino - just add spit.)

The trick, though, is to get more than one. It's not because they're cheap; they just don't understand the concept of caffeine addiction. Or maybe they do and they've decided not to be enablers.

In America, you might slide your cup to the side and look plaintively in the direction of the waitress or captain, subtly asking for a refill. That doesn't work in Italy - the cup is simply whisked away.

Begging, in poorly accented Italian, does work. So far, I haven't had to get on my knees, but I am prepared.